Chiusi and Città della Pieve: Home Sweet Home
Sometimes the best places are right under your nose. Chiusi is two kilometers from the Podere: Etruscan underground labyrinth, unique catacombs in Tuscany, legendary lake where Saint Mustiola walked on water. Città della Pieve is Perugino's village with the largest and most moving fresco he ever painted. You don't need to go far to experience real Tuscany: just step outside home.
Imagine waking up at the Podere, having breakfast with Sonia's cakes, and in 5 minutes already being in Chiusi center. Descend into Etruscan tunnels, lunch with seasonal soups, then choose: go to Città della Pieve for Perugino's moving fresco, or to the lake to see where Saint Mustiola walked on water. Return home for dinner, or stop at Coppetta. It's the itinerary of those who sleep two kilometers away and discover that the most beautiful Tuscany is right at home.
Right Around the Corner: Real Tuscany
Due borghi, due anime: Chiusi sotterranea ed etrusca, Città della Pieve rinascimentale e artistica.** A Chiusi scendi nei cunicoli scavati 2500 anni fa, visiti le catacombe dove riposa Santa Mustiola, arrivi al lago dove ogni 3 luglio si vede la scia del suo mantello. A Città della Pieve scopri l'Adorazione dei Magi del Perugino, 7 metri di affresco che ti lascia senza parole. In mezzo scegli: arte o natura, Perugino o lago. O torni due giorni. Casa è qui vicino.
🌅 MORNING: Underground Chiusi (9:00-13:00)
From outside Chiusi looks like a quiet village. Then you go underground and understand: there's another world down here.
The National Etruscan Museum preserves urns, sarcophagi and ceramics from 2500 years ago. But the real show is Porsenna's Labyrinth: 130 meters of underground tunnels leading to a monumental Etruscan-Roman cistern. Then climb 142 steps inside the bell tower and you're on top: 360° view over Valdichiana, lake, Amiata, Trasimeno.
The Civic Museum takes you into other tunnels where the world's only collection of Etruscan epigraphy is displayed: 300 inscribed urns telling the ancient city's registry. And at the end, 25 meters below your feet, an underground lake where water has been dripping for millennia in silence.
📍 Podere's tip
Chiusi Card for all museums. Start at 9 from Etruscan Museum, then Labyrinth (book the visit), finally Civic Museum. Dedicate 3 hours: Chiusi deserves time, not rush.
🍽️ LUNCH: Chiusi center (13:00-14:30)
La Solita Zuppa is the kingdom of seasonal soups (ribollita in winter, creative in summer) and delicate surprising ginger ravioli. Authentic Tuscan cuisine, where locals return.
Osteria Etrusca is more versatile: pici all'aglione, steak, wild boar, but also pizza. Perfect if someone in the group wants something different.
If you do "lake version" in the afternoon, lunch directly at Lake Chiusi and taste brustico: lake fish cooked on reed stalks, unique smoky flavor.
📍 Podere's tip
Solita Zuppa is small: book ahead. Ask for soup of the day, changes with season. Osteria Etrusca always has room and pizza saves the kids.
☀️ AFTERNOON: Choose your soul (14:30-18:30)
Two paths, two different experiences.
🎨 OPTION A: Città della Pieve and Perugino
15 minutes and you're in Città della Pieve, birthplace of Pietro Vannucci called "Perugino", Raphael's master.
The Oratory of Santa Maria dei Bianchi houses the Adoration of the Magi: 7x6.5 meters of fresco painted in 1504. Occupies an entire wall. The Magi, Madonna, Saint Joseph, shepherds, a flying angel, and in the background the Val di Chiana hills painted with absolute sweetness. When you enter, only that remains.
The Cathedral has other Perugino works: Baptism of Christ, Madonna in Glory, apse frescoes. Palazzo della Corgna is a triumph of 16th-century frescoes: the Governor's Hall with Pomarancio's "Concert" seems alive.
And then there's Vicolo Baciadonne, said to be Italy's narrowest alley: 60 cm, two people meeting must brush against each other to pass.
📍 Podere's tip
Catacombs by reservation (tel. Cathedral Museum). Then lake for relax or Bonifica Trail with our e-bikes. If you love nature, this is the right option.
🌿 OPTION B: Lake Chiusi and Saint Mustiola
First stop: Catacombs of Saint Mustiola (3 km toward the lake). One of only two visitable catacombs in Tuscany. 3rd-5th century underground galleries, the arcosolium where Saint Mustiola was buried, patron saint of Chiusi. Legend: Roman noblewoman converted to Christianity, during persecutions fled from soldiers, reached the lake, spread her cloak on water and used it as a boat to cross. Died martyr July 3rd, 274. Every July 3rd at dawn, on the lake you can still see the trail of her cloak.
Then Lake Chiusi: 300 hectares of nature, last remnant of ancient swamp. Reeds, birdwatching (herons, egrets, ospreys), silence. Two medieval towers – "Beccati Questo" (Sienese) and "Beccati Quello" (Perugian) – mark the Tuscany-Umbria border.
The Sentiero della Bonifica runs along the lake: 62 km to Arezzo, flat, perfect for walks or e-bike tours. You can canoe, or simply sit and breathe.
📍 Podere's tip
Museum Circuit (Oratory, Cathedral, Palace, Museum). Start from Oratory at 3pm, then Cathedral and Palace. Vicolo Baciadonne is hidden: ask locals."
🍽️ DINNER:** Coppetta – perfect creamy cacio e pepe + quality meat. Where locals eat.
🌟IF YOU HAVE TIME: Sarteano, Cetona and our experiences
SARTEANO (11 km from Podere, 9 from Chiusi): medieval village dominated by the Castle (4 floors, secret spiral staircase, breathtaking view). The Tomb of the Infernal Chariot is an exceptional archaeological discovery: vivid colored 4th century BC Etruscan frescoes.
CETONA (12 km from Podere, 10 from Chiusi): village among Italy's most beautiful, at the foot of Monte Cetona. Civic Museum for Prehistory documents 50,000 years of human presence. Belverde Archaeological Park: visitable prehistoric caves where Neanderthal man lived. Huge luminous Piazza Garibaldi, alleys climbing to the Fortress. Suspended, silent, beautiful atmosphere.
OUR EXPERIENCES (book with us):
- Santa Mustiola Winery (5 km from Podere): wine tasting in the Etruscan tomb. Unique.
- San Gregorio Farm (5 min from Podere): cinta senese cured meats tasting.
📍 Podere's tip
Sarteano and Cetona deserve half a day each. If you stay with us multiple days, dedicate one to them. And we organize Santa Mustiola and San Gregorio experiences: just ask.
PRACTICAL INFO
📍 Distance from Podere
- Chiusi center: 2 km (5 min)
- Chiusi Lake: 5 km (8 min)
- Città della Pieve: 15 km (20 min)
- Sarteano: 11 km (12 min)
- Cetona: 12 km (13 min)
⏱️ Things to know
- Chiusi Card: (3 museums). Etruscan Museum + Labyrinth + Civic Museum
- Porsenna's Labyrinth: Book guided tour (tel. 0578 226975)
- Mustiola Catacombs: Reservation only,
- Città della Pieve Museum Circuit: Oratory, Cathedral, Palace, Museum
- Restaurants: Solita Zuppa book ahead. Osteria Etrusca no. Coppetta book weekends
- Bonifica Trail: Free, always open
- Podere e-bikes: ask us
🌅 Seasonality
- Spring/Summer: Ideal for lake, birdwatching, Bonifica Trail, e-bike
- Autumn: Beautiful colors, fewer tourists, perfect temperatures
- Winter: Underground Chiusi always visitable. Lake more silent and mystical
Ready to discover Chiusi and Città della Pieve, the villages we have in our hearts because we have them under our home?
Discover underground Chiusi (Etruscan labyrinth, Santa Mustiola catacombs, legendary lake) and Città della Pieve with Perugino. Itinerary 2 km from Podere.