Crete senesi, Tuscany's lunar landscape

There's a corner of Tuscany where the earth becomes sculpture. Where hills shed their green dress to reveal their clay soul, shaped by wind and water into forms that seem to belong to another planet. The Crete Senesi aren't just a landscape: they're an emotion, a silence that fills you, a beauty that takes your breath away.

From the lunar biancane of Chiusure to Site Transitoire—Tuscany's "Stonehenge" where the sun sets perfectly framed by a stone window—from the ancient walls of Monte Oliveto Maggiore Abbey to the cypress-lined avenues drawing the horizon, this is the authentic heart of the Crete Senesi. An itinerary for those seeking contemplative Tuscany, the one that has inspired artists and photographers for centuries.

A journey that will make you feel like you're on the moon in the heart of Tuscany

This itinerary develops in the heart of the Crete Senesi, 40 minutes from Podere Grotta Antica.

The scenic roads connecting the villages are themselves part of the experience: every curve offers views of badlands and solitary cypresses. The landscape changes dramatically with each season, offering ever-new emotions. Plan a full day to enjoy this contemplative journey.

STOP 1: ASCIANO

Park outside the walls and enter through Porta Senese. The historic center develops along Corso Matteotti, where historic palaces and artisan shops maintain the authentic village atmosphere. The Collegiata di Sant'Agata houses works by Sienese masters, but the real treasure is the Civic Archaeological and Sacred Art Museum (Palazzo Corboli): extraordinary Etruscan artifacts from nearby necropolises and Ambrogio Lorenzetti's triptych worth the visit alone.

📍 Podere's tip
Before leaving, stop at La Botteghina di Luisa on the main street: a small deli with the best Crete Senesi products (Cinta Senese cured meats, cave-aged pecorino cheese, sulla honey). Ask her for the sandwich with finocchiona and fresh pecorino—perfect for a picnic among the badlands.

🍽️ Dove mangiare
Locanda Amordivino for an important dinner with spectacular charcoal-grilled Fiorentina steak and open fireplace, or L'Angolo dello Sfizio for traditional cuisine in a more informal setting.

STOP 2: CHIUSURE

From Asciano, Strada del Pecorile (SP60) offers one of Tuscany's most photographed views: Chiusure perched among badlands and biancane. This hundred-inhabitant village is a gem of stone and silence. Enter through Porta Senese and climb to Rocca Tolomei: from here you'll have a 360° view of all the Crete Senesi, from Siena's skyline to badlands that look like petrified waves.

Fascinating history: in 1421 the castle dominating Chiusure literally collapsed into the badlands due to unstable clay terrain. The terrified inhabitants fortified the current village—the walls are still visible. The ancient castle ruins are still called "Castellaccio" (bad castle).

📍 Podere's tip
If you come in late April, there's the Chiusure Artichoke Festival dedicated to the very rare Morellino di Chiusure—a local variety with wine-red color, extremely tender with unique flavor, almost impossible to find elsewhere. The festival lasts four days and transforms the village into a center of gastronomy and folklore.

STOP 3: MONTE OLIVETO MAGGIORE ABBEY

Only 1.5 km from Chiusure (but drive—the return climb is steep with 1,600 steps!). The abbey founded in 1319 by San Bernardo Tolomei is an absolute masterpiece immersed in a forest of cypresses and oaks. Cross the drawbridge under the crenellated tower and prepare yourself: the Great Cloister with frescoes by Sodoma and Luca Signorelli (36 scenes of St. Benedict's life, early 1500s) will leave you breathless. Each fresco is a world, colors still vivid after five centuries.

Don't miss the abbey church with wooden choir stalls inlaid by Fra' Giovanni da Verona (1505), an absolute masterpiece of Renaissance inlay work. The Benedictine monks still living in the abbey celebrate liturgy with Gregorian chants—if you can, attend Mass or Vespers: an experience that touches the soul.

🌲 Podere's tip

Absolutely stop at the monks' shop before leaving the abbey! The Benedictines artisanally produce herbal liqueurs, wines, honey, healing herbal teas and potions according to secret recipes passed down through generations. The herbal liqueur is exceptional, as are the chestnut honey and herbal grappa. Unique products impossible to find elsewhere, and by purchasing you directly support monastic life.

STOP 4: IL SITO TRANSITORIO - The Tuscany Stonehenge

Return toward Asciano and take Strada Leonina—initially paved, then unpaved but passable—winding between golden hills and cypress-lined avenues to an isolated height between Leonina and Mucigliani. Here, atop a hill with breathtaking views over the entire Crete Senesi landscape and Siena's skyline on the horizon, you'll find Site Transitoire: a monumental stone sculpture created by French artist Jean-Paul Philippe in 1993.

The work consists of four elements in Etruscan basaltine: a throne facing the landscape, a large stone window several meters high, a sarcophagus, and a labyrinth traced on the ground. The real magic lies in astronomical alignment: the artist designed the window so that on summer solstice day (June 21st), at sunset, the sun sets perfectly framed in the opening, offering a unique spectacle.

Sit on the stone throne, look through the window, let the silence and immensity of the landscape envelop you. This is one of Italy's most photographed places, but when you're there, in that moment, it's only yours.

📍 Podere's tip

Come here at sunset, without doubt. Late afternoon light transforms the Crete into a Flemish painting, clay colors ignite with orange and purple hues. Bring a blanket, sit on the throne, and enjoy the show. And before reaching Site Transitoire, stop at the Strada Leonina cypress avenue: it's one of Tuscany's most iconic views, with cypresses forming a perfect perspective tunnel.

AFTER SITO TRANSITORIO - Make these moments last forever

You've just walked through some of the most photogenic places on Earth: the Crete Senesi, with timeless villages suspended in time.

Imagine reliving all of this with a professional photographer by your side. Not selfies in front of monuments. Not random snapshots. A real photoshoot capturing you two in these dreamlike settings: sunset light, embraces under centuries-old trees, kisses with Siena behind you.

At Podere Grotta Antica, we organize professional photoshoots in Val d'Orcia's most iconic locations. Expert photographers who know every corner, every light, every perfect moment.

Perfect for:

• Marriage proposals

• Important anniversaries

• Honeymoons

• Or simply to have memories that never fade

Moments pass. Photographs last forever.

👉 Discover the photoshoot service

STOP 5: BUONCONVENTO

Fortified medieval village at the confluence of the Ombrone and Arbia rivers, along the ancient Via Francigena. Park outside the walls and enter through one of the historic gates. The village preserves much of its 14th-century walls, clearly visible and walkable in sections. The center develops along Via Soccini, flanked by medieval palaces with towers, loggias and noble coats of arms.

The Museum of Sacred Art of Val d'Arbia houses works by Duccio di Buoninsegna, Pietro Lorenzetti and Sano di Pietro. Historical curiosity: right here in 1313 Emperor Henry VII of Luxembourg died during his descent into Italy—Dante placed him in Paradise in the Divine Comedy despite his recent death.

📍 Podere's tip

Buonconvento is the perfect place for lunch or dinner during this Crete Senesi day. If you choose Da Mario (which we highly recommend), book especially for summer dinner—places are limited and foreign tourists love it for its authenticity.

STOP 6: THE CRETE LANDSCAPE - Biancane, Badlands and Solitary Cypresses

Now that you've visited villages and monuments, it's time to fully immerse yourself in the landscape. Take Provincial Road 438 (SP438) connecting Asciano to Siena: this is one of Tuscany's most beautiful scenic roads, where every curve offers a postcard view.

Biancane are white and grayish clay formations emerging from the ground like petrified waves, created by erosion of Pliocene clays (2.5 million years ago!). Badlands are valleys deeply carved by water erosion, with steep, almost desert-like walls. Together they create a lunar, alien landscape that dramatically changes appearance with seasons and light.

Stop at the various marked viewpoints along the road. Get out of the car, walk the trails that gently venture into the landscape. Look for solitary cypresses—often one or two trees in the middle of naked clay—the absolute symbol of these lands.

A magical place not to miss is the Podere Baccoleno cypress avenue (visible from SP60): a winding "S"-shaped path flanked by centuries-old cypresses. It's one of Tuscany's most iconic images. The avenue is private but photographs beautifully from the public hillside along the road.

📍Podere's tip

If you love walking, Trail 511 connects Chiusure to Monte Oliveto Maggiore through badlands and woods (about 2 km on foot). WARNING: if you decide to walk among badlands, bring plenty of water (desert area without shade), hat and sunscreen. Clay terrain becomes extremely slippery when wet—don't walk on badlands after rain or with bad weather forecast.

STOP 7 (OPTIONAL): RAPOLANO THERMAL BATHS

If after a day of walks and contemplations you want pure relaxation, Rapolano Terme's thermal baths are just 15-20 minutes from Asciano, perfect for ending the day beautifully. Two main facilities: Terme San Giovanni (more modern, indoor/outdoor pools at 38°C, sauna, Turkish bath) and Antica Querciolaia (more rustic, immersed in greenery, natural atmosphere).

The thermal waters are sulfur-bicarbonate-calcium, excellent for skin, circulation and joint pain. After a day walking among badlands, immersing yourself in warm water watching sunset over the Crete is an experience that recharges body and soul.

📍 Podere's tip

If you want to combine thermal baths and good cuisine, Scannano is perfect. You can dine even if you're not staying there, but always book ahead. Alternatively, return to Asciano (15 minutes) for Amordivino if you want a more important dinner.

PRACTICAL INFO

📍 Distance from Podere

• Chiusi → Asciano: 35-40 min (35 km)

• Chiusi → Chiusure: 40 min (38 km)

• Chiusi → Buonconvento: 45 min (40 km)

• Chiusi → Rapolano Terme: 40 min (36 km)

⏱️ Itinerary duration

1 full day (8:00-19:00 circa).
With thermal baths: until 9:00pm.

🌅 When to go

SPRING (March-May): Gray clays cover themselves with brilliant green, wildflowers and red poppies. Perfect temperatures for walking. Chiusure Artichoke Festival (late April).

SUMMER (June-August): Ripe wheat paints hills gold and ochre, saturated colors, powerful light. Ideal for sunset photography and thermal baths. Summer solstice at Site Transitoire (June 21st).

AUTUMN (September-November): Burnt brown, orange, red vineyards. Grape harvest time, mushrooms, white truffles. Golden light perfect for photography.

WINTER (December-February): The lunar landscape reaches its purest essence. Naked clays, white biancane, deserted villages. Absolute silence. The most contemplative season.

Ready to get lost among the waves of earth?

The Crete Senesi are contemplative Tuscany: silence, pure beauty, landscape that changes every hour and every season.