The Sword in the Stone and Medieval Towers: From San Galgano to San Gimignano

The real sword in the stone isn't in England. It's in Tuscany, stuck in a stone by a knight in 1180. And the Manhattan of the Middle Ages isn't in New York: it's a UNESCO village with 14 medieval towers dominating the Sienese hills.

This itinerary combines two Tuscan wonders that seem straight out of a fairytale: the Abbey of San Galgano without a roof (sky as vault, grass as floor) and San Gimignano, the village of towers where you eat world champion gelato under buildings as tall as medieval skyscrapers.

Two places telling stories of knights, powerful families, legends and miracles. A day you won't forget.

From Chiusi to Legend: Your Day Between Swords and Towers.

This is one of those itineraries that leaves you speechless. The real sword in the stone exists, it's not a fairy tale. Italy's most beautiful medieval towers are here, not 500 km away. And world champion gelato awaits you in a 1300s square.

One day. Two Tuscan icons. Zero compromises.

Leave Chiusi in the morning, return in the evening with the best photos of your trip. And the desire to tell everyone you saw a 1180 knight's sword stuck in a rock inside a round chapel. Because when you tell them, no one believes you until you show them the photos.

MORNING: SAN GALGANO AND THE SWORD IN THE STONE

1. Abbey of San Galgano: The Cathedral Covered by Sky

A cypress-lined avenue leads you to an apparition: a majestic Gothic abbey, with columns, arches, windows... but NO ROOF. The sky is the vault, grass is the floor. It's surreal, it's beautiful, it's unique in the world.

The abbey was built by Cistercian monks in 1218 and prospered for centuries. Then came plague, economic decline, abandonment. In 1781 the roof collapsed. In 1786 lightning struck down the bell tower. The monks left and the structure remained like this: an open-air cathedral, where nature has taken the place of the covering.

Today it's one of Tuscany's most photographed places: wedding sets, fashion shoots, films. When you enter and look up at the sky instead of the vault, you understand why.

2. Montesiepi Hermitage: The Real Sword in the Stone
Behind the abbey starts a path climbing Montesiepi hill. In 5 minutes you reach a small round chapel with bichrome dome (red brick and white travertine). Open the door, enter, and...

There it is: the sword in the stone. Real. From 1180. Stuck in a stone in the chapel's center, protected by a glass case (after someone in the '80s tried to extract it and broke it at the hilt).

The legend of San Galgano:
Galgano Guidotti was born in Chiusdino in 1148 to a noble family. Dissolute life, parties, violence, typical medieval knight. Then in 1180 he had a vision of Archangel Michael who said: "Change your life." Galgano climbed Monte Siepi, stuck his sword in the rock (symbol of renouncing war) transforming it into a cross, and retired to live as a hermit. He died a year later. He was canonized in 1185.

Connection with King Arthur:
Galgano's story is from 1180. The first legends of King Arthur and the sword in the stone are later (late 1100s-early 1200s). Many scholars think the Arthurian legend was inspired by this true story, spread rapidly through Europe via Via Francigena pilgrims. The chapel is round like the Round Table. One of the Arthurian knights is called Galvano/Galgano. Coincidences?

Macabre gem:
In a side chapel there's a case covered by cloth. Lift it. Inside are two mummified human arms. Legend says they belonged to a thief who tried to steal the sword but was mauled by wolves. Modern analysis confirms: they're compatible with the historical period. Real or not, they're impactful.

📍 Podere's tip
Go early morning (9-10) or late afternoon. Better light, fewer people, more mystical atmosphere. And if it's a day with fast-moving clouds, the spectacle is even more beautiful.

📍 Podere's tip
The hermitage is small and fills quickly. If there are too many people, wait 5 minutes outside: it's worth it. And read the information at the entrance about Galgano's story: it makes everything more fascinating.

3. Chiusdino (Optional - 10 minutes)
If you have time and curiosity, 7 km from the abbey there's Chiusdino, medieval village where Galgano was born. Narrow streets, stone houses, authentic atmosphere.

What to see:
- San Galgano's birthplace (presumed, with commemorative plaque)
- Church of San Michele Arcangelo (keeps the saint's skull relic!)
- Sacred Art Museum (combined ticket with abbey)
- Panoramic points over Val di Merse

📍 Podere's tip
Chiusdino is nice but not essential. If you want to maximize time for San Gimignano, skip it and go straight there. But if you love tiny authentic villages, it deserves a quick stop (30 min max).

✨ LUNCH BREAK

Before San Gimignano, eat. Three options:

Option A: Agriturismo San Galgano (in front of abbey)
- Convenient, abbey view
- Traditional Tuscan cuisine
- Fair prices

Option B: Chiusdino
- Trattorias in village
- More authentic, less touristic

Option C: Lunch in San Gimignano (arrive around 2-2:30 PM)
- More gastronomic options
- See dedicated section below

AFTERNOON: SAN GIMIGNANO, THE MANHATTAN OF THE MIDDLE AGES

4. San Gimignano: The Village of 14 Towers

San Gimignano in the Middle Ages was extremely wealthy thanks to Via Francigena (pilgrims' road from Canterbury to Rome) passing through. Noble families competed building ever higher towers to demonstrate power and wealth. In 1300 there were 72 towers. Today 14 remain.

A 1255 decree established that no private tower could be higher than the Torre Rognosa (town tower, 51m). Some wealthy families tried anyway, building towers only slightly lower. Like the Ardinghelli with their twin towers.

When plague and economic decline arrived in the 14th century, San Gimignano "froze" in time. No one had money anymore to build or demolish. That's why medieval architecture remained intact today.

📍 Podere's tip
Sit for 10 minutes on a square bench. Observe towers, tourists, students. Breathe the atmosphere. Then go straight to Gelateria Dondoli (square corner): it's THE gelato to eat here.

5. Piazza della Cisterna
Triangular shape, brick pavement, octagonal 14th-century well in the center (hence the name). Around: medieval palaces, soaring towers, cafés with outdoor tables.

Main towers:
- Ardinghelli twin towers (Guelph family, enemies of Salvucci)
- Torre del Diavolo (Tower of the Devil) ⭐ (read the gem below!)
- Torre Pellari

Gem: The Tower of the Devil
Disturbing name, even more disturbing legend. It's said the owner, returning from a long journey, found the tower taller than when he left. No one in town had seen workers. The event was immediately attributed to the Devil's work, who during the night allegedly raised the tower.

Rational version: probably the owner was mistaken or wanted to create a legend to give importance to his tower. But the story remained.

Modern curiosity: The Tower of the Devil is in the videogame Assassin's Creed II, where the player can climb it.

Beautiful scenic road between Chiusdino and San Gimignano. At a certain point, in the distance, you see them: towers rising on the hill like medieval skyscrapers. Unmistakable profile.

Park outside the walls (well-signposted paid parking) and enter on foot from Porta San Giovanni or Porta San Matteo.

📍 Podere's tip
San Gimignano in summer is FULL of tourists. If possible, go in spring/autumn or late afternoon when tour buses leave. The village empties and becomes magical.

6. Gelateria Dondoli: World Champion Gelato
Sergio Dondoli is an award-winning master gelato maker. He's won the title of World Gelato Champion multiple times. His gelateria in Piazza della Cisterna always has a very long line. But it's worth every second of waiting.

Signature flavors:
- Crema di Santa Fina (San Gimignano DOP saffron + pine nuts) - Dondoli's signature
- Champelmo (pink grapefruit + Vernaccia di San Gimignano sparkling wine)
- Cream with cantucci, honey and bitter orange (created for Michelle Obama!)

Dondoli uses milk from a single biodynamic farm with "adopted" cows living free. Local organic fruit. Territorial ingredients. It's craftsmanship at the highest level.

📍 Podere's tip
Get at least 2 flavors. One MUST be Crema di Santa Fina. It's unique in the world. Trust us.

📍 Podere's tip
If you skipped Torre Grossa, come here for panoramic view. But if you did the tower, come anyway: it's a quiet corner away from tourist crowds.

📍 Podere's tip
If you must choose one paid thing, climb Torre Grossa. The view is worth everything. But if you prefer to spare yourself 218 steps, there's a free alternative: Rocca di Montestaffoli (see below).

7. Piazza del Duomo
Few steps from Piazza della Cisterna and you're in Piazza del Duomo, the village's religious and civic heart.

What to see:
A. Duomo (Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta)
- Simple Romanesque façade
- Interior: magnificent frescoes (Ghirlandaio, Benozzo Gozzoli)
- Chapel of Santa Fina (San Gimignano's patron saint)

B. Torre Grossa (54m - the tallest)
- Only climbable private tower
- 218 steps
- Crazy panoramic view of towers, village, hills
- Worth it if you don't suffer from vertigo

C. Torre Rognosa (51m)
- Town tower
- For centuries the tallest by decree
- Not climbable, but beautiful to see

D. Palazzo Comunale (Civic Museum)
- Pinacoteca with Tuscan works
- Dante's Hall (the poet came here in 1300)

8. Rocca di Montestaffoli (Bonus Free Panorama)
Behind the Duomo there's a public park with remains of a medieval fortress. Short climb, beautiful panoramic view of San Gimignano and surrounding hills. Free. Perfect for photos, picnic, relaxing break.

BONUS: MONTERIGGIONI (IF YOU HAVE TIME)

Monteriggioni - The Perfect Fortified Village
If after San Gimignano you still have energy (and time), make a quick detour to Monteriggioni: fortified village with intact city walls and 14 towers (same as San Gimignano, coincidence!).

What to see:
- Walkable walls (entrance ticket, 360° view)
- Tiny central square
- Church of Santa Maria Assunta
- Via Francigena passes through

Why it's worth it:
- Much less touristic than San Gimignano
- Perfectly preserved
- Visit in 30 minutes
- Fairytale atmosphere

When NOT to go:
- If you're tired after San Gimignano
- If it's late and you want to return to Chiusi calmly
- If you've seen enough medieval villages for today

📍 Podere's tip
Monteriggioni is the cherry on top, not the main course. If you have time and desire, make a quick stop. If not, skip without problems: San Galgano + San Gimignano are already a full and beautiful day.

PRACTICAL INFO

📍 Distance from Podere

- Chiusi → San Galgano: 80 km (1h-1h15)
- San Galgano → Chiusdino: 7 km (10 min)
- San Galgano → San Gimignano: 45 km (45 min)
- San Gimignano → Monteriggioni: 20 km (20 min)
- Monteriggioni → Chiusi: 90 km (1h15)

Complete loop: Chiusi → San Galgano (morning) → San Gimignano (afternoon) → Monteriggioni (bonus) → Chiusi

⏱️ Final Tips

✅ Leave early: San Galgano at 9-10, maximize the day

✅ Comfortable shoes: You'll walk a lot (San Gimignano is uphill)

✅ Book Torre Grossa online: Weekends = long queue

✅ Bring water: San Gimignano in summer is hot

✅ Eat Dondoli gelato: Non-negotiable

✅ Drink Vernaccia: When will you drink Tuscany's only white DOCG?

✅ Monteriggioni is optional: Don't feel guilty if you skip it

🌅 When to go

✅ Spring (April-May): Perfect weather, green countryside, blooming

✅ Autumn (September-October): Warm colors, harvest, fewer tourists

⚠️ Summer (June-August): San Gimignano VERY crowded, intense heat

❌ Winter: San Galgano ok, San Gimignano cold and windy

Ready for the sword in the stone and medieval towers?

Podere Grotta Antica is your perfect base for this itinerary: San Galgano and San Gimignano are less than 1h30 from here, and you return in the evening to your Tuscan refuge.